This basic crevasse rescue kit is designed to meet the needs of most serious amateur alpinists, as well as students on American Alpine Institute's 3-, 6-, and 12-day introductory mountaineering courses. The kit is designed with beginners in mind, so it includes all the cordage and carabiners required for an individual climber's glacier travel set-up. If you already own carabiners or slings, check the contents of the kit below and purchase the gear you need a la carte.
Unlike other crevasse rescue kits on the market, the gear has been selected for utility without regard to manufacturer, so we can offer you the best balance of cost and value of any commercially available crevasse rescue kit. (If you are already registered for a course with AAI, don't forget to factor in your 15% discount.) The principles guiding the selection of gear are multiple use, low weight, and optimal value.
It should go without saying that the missing piece in this kit is training. Crevasse rescue situations normally require a lot of improvisation -- the ability to quickly re-combine skills to solve unexpected problems. The skills required include ice axe self-arrest, snow and ice anchor construction, pulley system construction, and use of friction hitches. These skills are important for all climbers, in many situations other than crevasse rescue, and can not be replaced by more expensive, specialized equipment. To see an example of a crevasse rescue scenario taught in AAI's introductory courses, read this article drawn from AAI's crevasse rescue curriculum.
1 Lightweight Pulley
SMC CRx Pulley
4 Locking Carabiners
- 3 C.A.M.P HMS NITRO Screw Lock (for master pulley and climber/rescuer's harness tie-in point)
- 1 C.A.M.P HMS COMPACT (master point carabiner)
5 Non-locking Carabiners
- 5 C.A.M.P Photon Wire carabiners
1 Prusik Set (6mm Tendon accessory cord)
- 13-foot length of nylon cord, to be tied into a
"Texas kick" 2-stirrup prusik sling
- 5-foot length of cord, to be tied into a "waist prusik"
- 6-foot length of cord, to be tied into a "pack prusik"
2 Sewn Slings
- 1 Mammut Contact dyneema single-length sling (24 in/60 cm)
- 1 Black Diamond 18mm nylon double-length sling (48 in/120 cm)
NOTE: The following optional equipment is not included in the kit; the functional equivalent is usually necessary for crevasse rescue, but is often improvised, using an ice axe, pack, skis, or other equipment:
* Colors/Styles of certain items may vary from what is pictured.