What are my Prusiks used for on an AAI course?
**Prusiks pertaining to beginner and intermediate level crevasse rescue on AAI courses.
Disclaimer – This is not meant to be a substitute for education, just some preliminary info for people climbing with AAI. Please take a course and get yourself educated before heading out there on your own. The images in this write up are not meant to be perfectly accurate representations of crevasse rescue, but rather a visual for students to see where the prusik cords will be implemented.
*Prusik cords are attached to the climbing rope in such a manner, that friction allows it to "bite" or grab the rope.
- The 5ft length will be tied into a loop as shown above, using a double fisherman knot which will be taught on the course.
- For general glacier travel rigging, this length of cord will be pre-rigged on the climbing rope and can be used to belay-in other team members, this is shown in a later photo.
- This cord is also implemented as a self belay at times.
- For use in a crevasse rescue haul system, this length is mainly used as a rope grab in a 3:1 or 6:1 system which is depicted in a later photo.
- For use self-extracting, this length is mainly used as the "waist prusik", also depicted in a later photo.
- The 6ft. length will also be tied into a loop with a double fisherman’s knot.
- For generic glacier travel rigging, this length is known as the "pack prusik", this will be rigged on your backpack as shown below; the purpose for this is if you are the one hanging in the crevasse, you can clip this prusik to the rope and take off your backpack so it is off your back, making it easier to self-extract.
- For use in a crevasse rescue haul system, this cord can be used as another rope grab for a 6:1 system, shown in a later photo.
- The 13ft. length will be tied into what is known as the "Texas prusik"
- For crevasse rescue hauling, this prusik will mainly serve as the "ratchet", also known as the progress capture.
- For self-extracting, this prusik will be used as the “leg loops”, depicted in a later photo.
Glacier Travel Rigging
- 5ft. cord connected via a "prusik hitch" to the climbing rope.
- "Texas prusik" connected to the climbing rope via "prusik hitch" and daisy chained to make it more compact.
- Pre-rig set up for glacier travel.
- Belaying someone in on the rope team with your 5ft. length "waist prusik".
Crevasse Rescue Haul Systems
3:1 Haul System
- The "Texas Prusik" is set up as your progress capture.
- The 5ft. length is being used as a "tractor" or rope grab.
- The glove symbolizes the line that would be pulled.
- Note that every time you pull on the line, the prusik progress capture has to be re-set so you do not shock load the anchor and lose valuable progress. This will be shown on the course.
6:1 Haul System
The "Texas Prusik" again being used as the progress capture, or "ratchet".
The 5ft. length is again being used as the rope grab, or "tractor".
Here the 6ft. length, or "pack prusik", is being used as a secondary rope grab to complete the 6:1 system.
All three cords are in play here, the glove again symbolizes the line you would pull.
Again, with the prusik progress capture, it needs to be re-set before you release the tension from your initial pull every time.