Glacier Peak Climb Equipment List
Below is a complete list of all the equipment required for this course. Most items are clickable and will take you directly to our shop page, where you can view equipment that meets the course requirements. You may purchase items in advance, buy them on the day of the course, or rent them if rentals are available.
Link to a printable version with check-boxes: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1hpoFOYuzsbMfLpr0oFE8Gu0Gl3b51NEUEFHc0loL5Gw/edit?usp=sharing
This list is designed as a “worst case scenario”, a trip with significant inclement weather. However, if a program does not encounter significant weather, there may be items here that are not used. As you prepare for your trip, it is important to plan for the worst and hope for the best.
On the first day of your program, an AAI Guide and Equipment Specialist will work with you to refine your mountain kit. They will ensure that you bring exactly what is needed. It is acceptable to bring too much clothing and equipment to your initial meeting. It is also fine to bring things that you may have questions about. Any extra equipment can be left behind at our Gear Shop for safekeeping.
The Cascade climbing season is defined as May 1st through October 1st. This list will reference early, mid, and late-season conditions. They are defined as follows:
Early Season: May 1 - July 1
There is usually significant snow both on the ground as well as on the glaciers. You should expect to encounter deep, wet snow during the day and firm conditions at night. Overnight temps range from 15° to 40°F (-9° to 4°C). Daytime highs range from 35° to 70°F (1° to 21°C). Precipitation as snow or rain can be likely.
Mid Season: July 1 - September 1
Temps range from 40° to 50°F at night with occasional dips below freezing. Daytime temps often reach 70°F. You should expect the possibility of freezing temps above 9000ft on summit days throughout the summer. Though mid-season tends to be dryer, the possibility of rain is always there.
Late Season: September 1 - October 1
September is a varied month. Temps begin to drop both during the day and at night. Late in the month, you may encounter an increase in snow and rain.
Please be sure to check the forecast several days before your course to ensure that you are properly prepared. You can view the weather here:
NOAA Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Weekly Forecast
PROVIDED EQUIPMENT: Climbing rope, anchors, solid waste bags.
RENTALS: Equipment available for rent through the AAI Equipment Shop. These items can be rented on the first day of your course.
You can call or email the Equipment Shop for advice on gear.
shop@alpineinstitute.com
360-671-1570
Clothing
Wool or synthetic. Must fit under a helmet. Easily replaced with hooded layers after the early season.
Ideally fits under a helmet. Ball caps with a button on top are NOT recommended. Visors or athletic hats are more comfortable, vent better, and are easier to clean and dry out.
UPF-rated is highly recommended. Lighter colors are better for warm conditions and darker for colder conditions.
THESE ARE MANDATORY. Look for a pair that fits well and has side shields. The lenses should not let more than 12% of light through. Photochromic are more expensive, but usable in a wider range of light.
NOTE: Those using contacts should also bring a pair of prescription glasses in the event that your contacts or solution are lost or damaged. If you only use glasses, get a pair of over-the-glasses glacier glasses.
Bring extra batteries or charger for rechargeable battery style. Ideal range is 200-350 lumens.
Thin, lightweight, wool or synthetic gloves. Size to fit snug but not too tight. Phone-compatible fingertips and palm texture are nice to have. These could be worn alone in temps greater than 25°F when it is dry. UPF rated are ideal.
Bring 1 pair, 2 during the early season. These gloves are used for belaying, tying knots, rope management etc. Dexterity and durability are key. They provide slightly more insulation than a liner glove and are generally used in temps of 15°F to 30°F while actively using your hands. Comfortable but snug fit. Durable leather or synthetic palm. Water-resistant is recommended because they will dry faster.
Waterproof and insulated. If the glove lacks insulation, size it to fit a liner glove inside. Mainly used in wet conditions, cold temps, or when not moving.
NOTE: April-May courses are often much colder and may require more heavily insulated gloves.
Sports Bra
Wool or synthetic. Comfort is key. Avoid bras with adjusters and clasps, as they could get compressed by your pack straps.
A lightweight, wool or synthetic sun hoody is ideal. UPF 30+ sun protection is best. UPF clothing works better than sunscreen.
Lightweight “gridded fleece” or lightweight synthetic insulated jacket. Hood preferred. Active insulation weight - 40g/m2. Heavier insulation weight - 60-80g/m2
A softshell jacket is considered an “action layer.” Its materials are designed to stretch and breathe while also maintaining wind and water resistance. This allows the user to leave this jacket on for a wide range of temps and conditions throughout the day without the hassle of constantly changing layers. Similar to windproof jackets, which are lightweight and packable, but lack the breathability and stretchy nature of the softshell. Windproof jackets are ideal for blocking wind and light precipitation during low output activities.
AKA the “puffy”. Down or synthetic. This piece is worn in cold conditions or when not moving. Hood preferred. If choosing down, water-resistant down treatment is preferred to help prevent matting and loss of insulating ability if the jacket gets wet.
Hardshell Jacket (Available to rent)
Non-insulated jacket with a waterproof and breathable membrane. Three-layer construction is recommended. It must have a hood, ideally helmet-compatible. When sizing, make sure it can fit over other layers. Ski jackets are discouraged because they are usually not waterproof and have heavy insulation.
Undergarments
Wool or synthetic. Long, compression-style undergarments can help reduce inner thigh chafing.
Wool or synthetic. Bring 1 for early or late season. Optional for mid-season (depending on weather).
Thin, weather-resistant, breathable, and stretchy. You will wear these a majority of the time.
Hard Shell Pants (Available to rent)
Non-insulated, waterproof, and breathable membrane. Full side zips are recommended. Ideally has at least 1/4 length zipper from the bottom of the pant cuff in order to get pants on and off while wearing mountain boots. When sizing make sure it is able to fit over a base layer and soft shell pants. Insulated ski pants are strongly discouraged due to lack of waterproofness and heavy insulation.
Wool or synthetic socks that are at least mid-calf height. Modern boots are designed to insulate your feet, so a thicker sock is not recommended as these tend to lead to blisters and moisture retention. Using a lighter sock allows for a more accurate boot fit. Wearing a “silk-weight” liner sock beneath your hiking sock can reduce friction on the skin and mitigate blister development.
Approach Shoes or Trail Shoes (Optional)
Recommended for the 1-day of rock climbing. Used on good weather approaches for mid and late season and at camp. Early season tends to have too much snow on the ground and it is recommended to hike to camp in your boots. Be aware that trail running shoes do not offer as much support when hiking with a heavy pack. High stack shoes like Hoka are not recommended.
Mountaineering Boots (Available to rent)
Must be stiff and crampon compatible mountaineering boots. Double boots recommended prior to mid-June. For courses after Mid-June, single boots should be used.
NOTE: We rent double plastic boots for our May/June courses and single boots for the rest of the season. There are many makes and models out there and not all of them are created equal. Please consult our Equipment Shop if you are uncertain about the acceptability of your chosen model.
Gaiters (Optional) (Available to rent)
Knee or calf height. Best used in early season conditions. Optional for mid and late season. Gaiters do help protect pants from crampon holes regardless of the season.
Climbing
Helmet (Available to rent)
Must be UIAA-rated for climbing. Be aware that foam, break-away style helmets like the ones listed below are susceptible to damage if being loaded in a checked bag.
Harness (Available to rent)
Make sure the harness has a belay loop and gear loops. When sizing, it should fit over your clothes when you have multiple layers on. An alpine-style glacier harness works well for this program. If you plan on continuing on to our Alpinism 2, AMTL 2, or Alpine Ice a padded harness is more versatile.
Ice Axe (Available to rent)
A straight or slightly curved shaft ice axe is recommended. Adze is required. Please contact the Equipment Shop if you have any questions. Ice axe leashes are discouraged and not recommended.
NOTE: For participants looking to continue on to higher level courses such as AMTL 2 or Alpine Ice, a slightly curved ice axe in the 50-55cm range such as the Petzl Sum’Tec is appropriate.
Crampons (Available to Rent)
Must be steel crampons with front points and compatible with your mountaineering boots.
Trekking Poles (Available to rent)
One is required, 2 are highly recommended. Poles help with balance while hiking with a heavy pack and increase security during stream crossings. They also decrease the pressure on your knees during steep descents. For early season, poles should have snow baskets.
Prusiks
You will need 3 lengths of 6mm nylon cord: 13ft, 6ft, and 5ft. We have these as a kit at our Equipment Shop and it is encouraged that you use these as they have been specifically chosen for this course. We recommend getting 3 different colors for easy identification.
Must be UIAA-rated for climbing. Must have:
- 4 large pear-shaped munter-style locking carabiners
- 5 non-locking wire gate carabiners
Internal Frame Pack (Available to rent)
A 65L to 75L pack is the recommended size range. Mountaineering specific packs, instead of backpacking packs, are a good way to shave weight. Should also have the ability to carry weight well.
Camping
Tent (Available to rent)
3 season tents can be used if the rain fly goes all the way to the ground on all sides. A
“bathtub” floor for the inner test is also recommended. This means that the inner tent has a water-resistant floor material that scoops up from the floor 4-12" before changing to mesh. If your tent does not have wind lines, an additional 6-10ft of 3mm accessory cord is needed for rigging your rainfly in a mountain environment. (You can rent a 4-season and it’s possible to share if you would like).
Early Season: Double wall 4-season tent recommended.
Mid Season: 4-season or 3-season tent.
Late Season: 4-season tent recommended.
Sleeping Bag (Available to rent)
Synthetic or down. If you bring a synthetic bag, bring one on the lower end of the temp range since synthetic bags tend not to be as warm as down. If you sleep cold, bring a warmer bag than required. If choosing down, water-resistant down treatment is preferred to help prevent loss of insulating properties if the bag gets wet.
Early Season: 0° to 20°F (-18°to 6°C)
Mid Season: 20° to 30°F (-6° to -1°C)
Late Season: 15° to 20°F (-10° to -6°C)
For your sleeping bag. If it is a down bag, a waterproof compression sack is recommended.
Sleeping Pad (Available to rent)
Early Season: Bring 2. One inflatable and 1 closed-cell foam. The foam pad helps insulate
from the snow and serves as a backup to the inflatable pad.
Mid/Late Season: One inflatable pad or closed cell foam pad.
Stove & Fuel (Available to rent)
Liquid fuel or canister stove. Fuel is available at our Equipment Shop the morning of the course.
NOTE: Many people choose to share stoves, fuel, and tents to decrease weight. However, some people prefer to camp in their own tents and use their own stoves. This can be determined on the morning of the first day of your program.
Bring 1 pot.
Early Season: Bring a bigger pot for melting snow, 1.5L to 2L
Mid/Late Season: 0.5L to 1L
NOTE: If you have a complete stove system like the Jetboil or MSR Reactor and plan on eating out of your integrated pot, then you do not need to bring another pot.
Don’t forget the official “most forgotten item” - The spoon or spork. Long-handled spoons make stirring hot liquids safer and metal ones tend not to break as easily in cold temps.
Early Season: Bring a plastic bowl or mug, preferably with insulation
Mid/Late Season: Bring a plastic bowl, insulation not necessary
NOTE: If you have a Jetboil or MSR Reactor type stove and plan on eating out of your
integrated pot, then you don’t need to bring a bowl. The same applies if you plan on using commercially packaged dehydrated or freeze-dried meals.
Lighters
Bring 2.
A 3L capacity is recommended, though some people need more. A common approach is to bring a 2-3L bladder and a 1L hard-sided bottle. The bottle is important as a backup to the bladder if it gets punctured. A hard-sided bottle may also double as a mug for hot water, though not every bottle is designed to hold boiling water.
For Camelbak-style hydration bladders, bring a drinking tube insulator, as the tube can freeze up. Drinking tubes must also have a lock on the bite valve. If you choose to use this system, be aware that it requires constant vigilance to avoid freezing. Be prepared to have to pull your bladder out of your pack to drink, as hoses freezing is a persistent issue on programs.
Early Season: Bring more water carrying capacity, usually in the form of bladders (4 to 8L) to reduce the number of times you need to melt snow.
Water purification of some form is required. The popular tabs that our guides use, Aquatabs, are available at the Equipment Shop the morning of the course. A water filter is highly recommended as well, as water tabs don't function in cold water. Steripens are an acceptable alternative to purification tablets.
NOTE: Pumps can be damaged by silt in the glacial water and can easily freeze at night and crack. However, many of our guides are finding success using some of the integrated
pump/bladders like the BeFree and Quickdraw
You are responsible for your own food for the duration of the course. Please consult our meal planning page. You should arrive on the first morning of your course with at least 6-days of backcountry food.
Other Essentials
Toothbrush & Toothpaste
Travel size recommended
Required. Used after going to the bathroom and before eating. Wet wipes can be used for the “mountain shower.”
Alarm Clock
You will be responsible for waking up at certain times throughout the program. While your guide can sometimes be your alarm, there are often situations where tents are far apart. Be sure if you use your phone as an alarm that you have enough backup battery to accommodate for this. If you plan to use a watch, be sure your alarm is loud enough to work for you.
Toilet Paper
The provided solid waste bags have a small amount of toilet paper with them, but most people do not find this to be adequate. Estimate how much you’ll need for a program of this length and place that in a plastic zip-lock bag. An extra zip lock bag can be helpful for pack-out of used paper. If you plan to use wet wipes, be wary of scented or exfoliating types as these can be an irritant for some people.
Pee Cloth (Optional)
A reusable, antimicrobial pee cloth, used in the place of toilet paper or wet wipes.
Pee funnels such as the GoGirl or Freshette.
Menstrual Cup (Optional)
There are many things to consider about backcountry menstruation, click on the link for more information.
At least an SPF of 30+, zinc-based is preferred. Small travel-size tubes are recommended so you can put them in a close-by pocket for easy access.
Make sure if is SPF Rated.
- Band aids
- Blister Treatment
- Prescription Drugs
- Ibuprofen, etc
- If you wear contacts, make sure you have spares if you can’t see without them
Repair Kit
- Inflatable sleeping pad patch kit
- Duct tape (can be wrapped around trekking pole or water bottle. Gorilla Tape tends to be the best brand for the mountains).
- Zip ties
- 6-10ft of 3mm accessory cord
- 2 trash bags that are big enough to line the inside of your pack with
Optional Items
These items are not required, although many are nice “luxury” items that can make your expedition more enjoyable. Remember that a few ounces here and there add up to extra pounds on your back and knees during your expedition.
Gaia Navigation App
Optional smartphone app. Please have the Mt. Baker (all aspects) maps downloaded prior to the start of your course.
Map and Compass
Map should be of Mt. Baker Area (Preferably Green Trails Maps #13SX). The compass must have a declination adjustment.
Optional for April to early May and not needed later in the season. These are used in high winds or heavy rain and can serve as a backup to your glacier glasses. Look for UVA/UVB protection and a lighter lens is recommended for better visibility in flat light. Do not plan to use goggles as sunglasses over your prescription glasses, as it is difficult to see and manage your harness and equipment with goggles on. We recommend the “over the glasses” sunglasses from the company Cocoon.
Altimeter Watch
If you have one then bring it. It is a great tool to have in the backcountry, especially for
navigation.
Pee Bottle
Used at night or when the weather is poor so you don’t have to get out of your tent. A 32oz or larger capacity is strongly recommended. Many guides use a bladder instead of a bottle to increase capacity.
Entertainment
Books, games, cards, music player, kindle, etc. For evenings or rainy days in the tent.
Portable Charging Device
Phone charger, battery pack, or solar panel. You are responsible for your alarm clock each morning. If you are going to use your phone, be sure you have enough power to
accommodate this.
Ear Plugs
For defense against snoring and high winds.
Insect Repellent
Biting insects such as mosquitoes and blackflies can be prevalent during different times of the season depending on conditions and location. This is a nice item to have just in case. Sometimes even a headnet is a nice item to have.
Camera
Phone cameras or small point-and-shoot cameras are preferred. SLR cameras are not
recommended due to their size and bulk.
Comfortable Clothing and Footwear
Breathable footwear - like flip flops - as well as some comfortable cotton clothing can be nice to change into after you get back to the van.
Car Charger
Consider bringing an extra battery pack as well, having a lot of people using car charger cables is difficult.